Lip Neutralization 101: Pigments, Techniques & Pro Tips

For a long time, individuals with dark, hyperpigmented, or melanin-rich lips were often considered unsuitable candidates for lip blush treatments. However, with the rise in popularity of Lip Neutralization, that’s no longer the case. This advanced lip tattooing technique has paved the way for more inclusive and effective solutions in the world of permanent makeup.

Melanin-rich skin, hyperpigmentation, injuries, or certain skin conditions can all contribute to darker lips or discoloration. Lip Neutralization is an ideal option for clients who want to achieve brighter, lighter, and more even-toned lips.

What Is Lip Neutralization?

Lip Neutralization is a specialized permanent makeup treatment that requires advanced knowledge of color theory and pigment selection. The process involves using specific techniques to neutralize cool tones, balance out uneven pigmentation in the lips, and lighten dark lip tissue effectively.

Who Is a Good Candidate for Lip Neutralization?

Lip Neutralization is suitable for individuals with uneven lip tones or darker areas on their lips who desire a more uniform lip color. It’s typically recommended for those with skin types classified as Fitzpatrick 3 and above on the Fitzpatrick skin tone scale.

Here are examples of lips before Lip Neutralization:

Healed Results After Lip Neutralization:

Popular Pigments for Lip Neutralization

Color theory and pigment selection are critical when neutralizing lips. Using incorrect pigments can result in no change - or worse, cause the lips to darken further. Neutralizing unwanted tones involves using warm colors such as yellows, oranges, and reds to counteract the darkness.

Hanafy Dark Lip Neutralization Pigments

Carolina Alfonzo, a Hanafy Premium Partner and expert PMU artist since 2012, partnered with Hanafy to create four expertly formulated pigments.

These shades are crafted to shift hue, saturation, and value in clients with dark and cool-toned lips. Their unique formulas are warm, containing just the right amount of titanium dioxide to safely neutralize and balance dark lip tones, offering visible results—often from the first session.

Caracas No.1 - A warm orange pigment used for neutralising cool tones on melanin-rich, dark lips. This is best suited for use on lips with purple undertones. Use alone or in mixes to add warmth and brightness. ⁠

Medellin No.2 - A bright orange based pink pigment best used on dark brown lips with medium saturation and value or for use in the second session to add a warm pink finish. Use alone or with mixes to add warmth and pink vibrancy. ⁠

Barcelona No.3 - Light in colour but dense in opacity this pigment is used for neutralising cool tones on dark lips with high saturation and value. It has a perfect balance of white and orange and can lighten very saturated lips to make them warmer, without adding too much titanium dioxide. 

Miami No.4 - A bright and very warm colour based on two organic red pigments. Use for creating pink and red shades. Use on its own or as a booster to add colour intensity to mixes. 

Want to learn how to use these pigments? Click below for the 35 minute in-depth YouTube video with all the information you need!

Perma Blend LUXE x Carla Ricciardone Embody Pigments

In collaboration with Perma Blend Luxe, Carla Ricciardone developed the Embody Set, specifically designed for dark, cool-toned lips. This pigment set serves as the perfect base for any Lip Neutralization treatment.

This set includes ⁠⁠four base colors, three modifiers and a colorless adjuster, all shades are mixable and perfect for all levels of neutralization from from very cool purple tones to warm browns!⁠

 

 

Tips and Advice

Working with dark, melanin-rich lips is always a challenge, and the key to success is choosing the correct neutralization pigments! ⁠Hanafy has created this general guide below with tips for correct pigment selection.

Set Clear Client Expectations

While some clients may see a noticeable improvement after just one session, others may need multiple treatments to achieve their desired outcome. The darker the lips, the more sessions may be required.

Educate your clients about the process. Let them know it’s a gradual transformation and results improve over time. This ensures realistic expectations and keeps clients satisfied with their progress.

Always Take Photos

Photography is crucial for tracking progress during Lip Neutralization. Since this process often spans several sessions, typically 6–10 weeks apart, your clients might forget how much their lips have improved.

Documenting each stage with consistent, high-quality photos not only shows results but also gives your clients confidence in the journey. It’s a win-win for both education and marketing.

Why Lip Neutralization Matters

Lip Neutralization is a game-changing technique in the world of permanent makeup, offering inclusive solutions for clients with dark, uneven, or melanin-rich lips. With the right pigments, proper training in color theory, and a commitment to realistic client expectations, artists can deliver truly transformative results. Whether you're just beginning to explore this technique or looking to refine your approach, mastering Lip Neutralization opens the door to serving a broader and more diverse clientele with confidence.